Pokhara, Nepal to Kathmandu and Back West.....

With the Annapurna Circuit completed in 10 days I was caught with 9 days before my flight from Kathmandu on the 21^st April. Rather than heading to Kathmandu. I decided to remain in the far more tranquil tourist filled town of Pokhara.

Having finished the trek and arrived at Snow Leopard guesthouse, where I'd left my backpack and unnecessary items for trekking I was welcomed with a no rooms available sign, so I grabbed my pack and began searching. It wasn't long before I was settled in to a lovely room at the Mount Annapurna Inn guesthouse five minutes walk from Pokhara Lakeside.

Agreeing to stay put for 6 nights I was a afforded a fine room at a rate of 500 Nepalese Rupees (£3.35) per night. With an attached bathroom, piping hot water and WiFi it was just what I was looking for. There was also a nice balcony area, and open roof top to practice yoga and meditation. This suited me just fine. The family that run the M.A.I. were very lovely, which is always a bonus.

I bumped in to friends I'd met on the trek, and a lovely Italian guy who I'd met over breakfast a little over a month ago in Varanasi, India. The day I bumped in to Barbi he invited me to dinner with his friends, it was a nice couple of hours. 'Meet us at the Methaba Turkish restaurant at 7.30pm.' It was a bit of hike from where I lived, but I managed to get there for spot on 7.30pm, By 8pm no one had appeared. I ordered some food, then asked was there another Methaba on this road. Apparently there was, about 200 yards further down the road. This was a 'branch' of the main place. What were the chances. I wandered to Methaba main to meet the guys. I was sat by a lovely lady who who lived in Hawaii on The Big Island. We got chatting, then as always on to Amanda. She was quiet, and listened empathetically. She then went on to tell me she was waiting for results of a second opinion on a lump she'd found in her right breast. This lady is 42 years of age, the same as Amanda when she passed away. We kept in touch. She has since found out the lump was cancerous, and has chosen to have a full mastectomy with reconstruction. I asked what she intended to do. She told me, 'I'll just carry on enjoying life, doing what I'm doing.' She has chosen not to have chemotherapy or radiation.

Good luck in all you do 'J', live life fully and fearlessly like you have been.

A couple of younger guys joined us later on. One lovely (gay) fella and his pal Cameron. As it turned out Cameron happened to be from Fairbanks Alaska, exactly where I'm headed. We chatted and chuckled briefly, but it was time for me to head off, I was tired and wanted to be alone. As I left, I overheard the nice gay guy say to Jade, 'I like that man' followed by some other nice comments, followed immediately by Cameron saying 'I don't like him, not at all. He's competition for the ladies.' I afforded myself I little chuckle! He was unaware of my story.

I shouted back, 'I can still hear you all.', they laughed.

Nepali New Year's Eve, 14^th April was spent with a couple of girls I'd met on the trek. We dined with a few others, had a couple of beers, then headed to watch a live band. Nice night.

Whilst having breakfast the following morning at 'Kiss Kush', (my every morning breakfast haunt in Pokhara), a celebration of colour began in the street. People were flinging brightly coloured powders over one another. Minutes later, the road, the cafe, the menus, the tables, the food were all caked in the lightest covering of pink dust..... Kiss Kush on the corner by Cafe Concerto, well known for it's great pizzas serves a fantastic, hearty and delicious breakfast for 220 rupees (150 nrps to the £1). It was known as the 'Heavy Set Breakfast'. It included spicy fried potatoes, onions and tomatoes, with a sliced wholemeal baguette served with butter and jam. A tea of choice (ginger and lemon) followed by a large bowl of fruit, muesli and curd (I traded my two eggs for a larger bowl of the muesli each morning). With this breakfast I need not eat until evening.

New Year's Day Celebration outside Kiss Kush.

Another breakfast morning, whilst checking emails and sipping ginger tea, I spotted Dr Doug, my Australian friend from the Annapurna Circuit. I chased him down to say hello. Doug asked if I'd managed to get to the pass on Amanda's birthday, he was genuinely pleased for me, and even more pleased that I hadn't died achieving my goal. He went on to kindly offer me a ride to Kathmandu in travel party's private mini van on Friday. He knew I was headed back in a few days. I grabbed the opportunity, which meant I'd be leaving Pokhara a day earlier than planned.

I'd spotted a couple of shops selling beautiful organic hemp products. Rucksacks, handbags, small bags, wallets, guitar cases, dresses, trousers and hats.... I wondered if they would sell in the UK. All the organic hemp items I was looking to purchase were made by a

Amanda-purna Circuit - Renamed from Annapurna Circuit - I'm not doing it for Anna.......

The bus journey to Besisahar was nicely uneventful. I met Kieron from Dublin and Eddy from Seattle. Eddy was a raw foody for the past 7years. He started the trek carrying a water melon. I didn't really fancy his chances of completing the 17 to 21 day circuit featuring the highest mountain pass in the world and the steepest ascent and descent of any trekking path in the world.... I think bending the rules is a must on such an adventure.

I walked for the first hour with Kieron and Eddy, then started to pull away a little.... to the point I got too far ahead to say goodbye. A plan was formulating in my head. It was the 2^nd April... in 5 days, the 7^th April, Amanda would have been 43 years old.... I wondered could I commemorate her birthday by reaching the highest pass in the world on her birthday.

From the people I spoke to apparently it was a resounding no.

The distance, the rough terrain, the steep ascent and the possibility of

To the Back of Beyond.... Surkhet and Tallo Dungaswor

Homestay 1.

I sat waiting in the dusty bus stop after ringing Miguel to let him know I'd arrived from Tiger Tops. His friend arrived 15 minutes later. His friend was a Tharu Nepali man with an old bicycle, a big smile and a nice hat. Miguel told me I'd have to carry nothing, but there was no way this man and his bicycle were going to accommodate both my bags. He took the bigger of the two and popped it on the back of his bicycle. I kept the little densely packed electronics and photographic equipment bag thinking we'd be there in no time. Forty minutes later having passed along many tracks and little farm houses we arrived. I have to stop assuming I short distances.

'Hello my friend! How are you?' Miguel welcomed me smile and big hand shake.... I was past warm.... I was roasting. 'I'm good Miguel, quite a walk that, wasn't really expecting it to be honest. Nice to see the surrounding area though.' I remarked.

This was Miguel's 'Homestay'. He helped this family build a house some 5 years ago whilst he stayed with them. Miguel is fluent in Nepali, and although the Tharu mainly speak Tharu, they also speak Nepali. The house as you'd expect for a Nepali farm house consists of a mud floor with white painted mud plastered brick walls. The house runs over two floors. The floor above the ground floor is the living area.

The kids....

Farm from the barn window...

Relatives son and daughter....

Our beds were basic. There was electricity for lighting provided by solar lights and a little generator when necessary. It was basic, but it should be, as these people live simply. Everything they eat they grow. When Miguel's friend had to travel to India with Miguel for a couple of days he ate nothing. He didn't trust it. He eats only fresh foods, be them meat, vegetables, pulses or beans.

The Man of The House....
told you he had a nice hat!

Me in the barn window....

As I sit in the glass-less window on the first floor of the farmhouse looking on to the yard below four little girls play at jumping over one another. Two form the 'high jump bar' with their legs, two jump. Then they switch. Shortly afterwards they play with handfuls of stones, performing a little throw up, pick up and catch. Whilst this goes on their little brother plays with an old