Amanda-purna Circuit - Renamed from Annapurna Circuit - I'm not doing it for Anna.......

The bus journey to Besisahar was nicely uneventful. I met Kieron from Dublin and Eddy from Seattle. Eddy was a raw foody for the past 7years. He started the trek carrying a water melon. I didn't really fancy his chances of completing the 17 to 21 day circuit featuring the highest mountain pass in the world and the steepest ascent and descent of any trekking path in the world.... I think bending the rules is a must on such an adventure.

I walked for the first hour with Kieron and Eddy, then started to pull away a little.... to the point I got too far ahead to say goodbye. A plan was formulating in my head. It was the 2^nd April... in 5 days, the 7^th April, Amanda would have been 43 years old.... I wondered could I commemorate her birthday by reaching the highest pass in the world on her birthday.

From the people I spoke to apparently it was a resounding no.

The distance, the rough terrain, the steep ascent and the possibility of
life threatening altitude sickness (splitting headache, nausea, vomiting, pulmonary embolism.... and death) seemed to rule out such a plan. I would have loved to do it, but risking life and limb seemed rather silly to make a date.... But to me the date was an important one.

To reach the pass in 7 to 8 days is apparently a good effort....

Day 1  -  April 2nd

My day pack weighed all of 3.5kgs. Nothing really. My camera pack weighed in at nearer 6kg, due to the tripod. I began walking at a good pace at 12pm.

The first part was disappointing, much like a working quarry. I know knew why so many folks took a Jeep to the next major walking point. 2 hours of stomping through a working quarry, with huge trucks and thick dust filling the air is no fun!

3 hours in and things were more peaceful. The path was tranquil, soft rain had begun to fall. It was nice. The temperature dropped, and the surrounding area was stunning. I picked up my pace to see if I could reach Jagat. The rocks became very slippery, and a misplaced foot led me to take a nasty fall, cracking my left knee on a large rock and my right elbow on a smaller one. I got away with a couple of bruises and some lost skin. I dusted myself down and continued.

The rain became heavier and I pulled in at Ghermu, the stop before Jagat. I'd been walking five and a half hours, according to the guide it should have taken a couple of hours longer. I was pleased. I dined with a group of Twenty somethings form Australia, England, Sweden and a Canadian. They were all lovely. They kindly allowed me to share the five bed room with them, as it was the only bed left in the place. Thank you Mike, Tess, Rachel and Freida. A French guy asked where I'd started, then exclaimed it wasn't a race. I knew that.... But there was a little race going on in my heart and mind.

Day 2  -  April 3rd

After a hearty breakfast I hit the tracks at 6.30am hoping to reach Danaque, almost 9 hours away according to the guide.... By 8am thunder, lightening and heavy rained forced me to take shelter in a an old couples humble little abode.  Pretty dark, no electricity, so slow shutter speeds were the order of the day.... 

I was very cold, having not bothered packing a waterproof layer. Silly. You live and you learn. The old man tossed me a little, circular straw mat to sit on. Fluffy new born chickens wandered around the two room home. The lady ushered me to the fire to get warm, whilst the man chatted away to me in Nepali, smiling the entire time. 

The lady then got to making me a cup of tea.... How lovely. After 45 minutes the rain had let up a little, so I decided to continue my journey. I stopped to grab a bowl of porridge around 11.30am. Prices had almost doubled already.... I had a feeling there would be a positive correlation between food and drink stuffs and altitude. As a general guide I began using Snickers bars, Coca Cola, Porridge and Dal Baht (the local meal) to the price increase. I don't drink Coke, but saw that it had rocketed from 80 rupees the day before to 180 rupees now!

The rain held off for a couple of hours, it was 3pm. On reaching Bagarchap 45 minutes short of Danaque loud claps of thunder rattled through the valley. I'd just about dried out. As I was walking past a decent looking lodge on my left the proprietor in his bright yellow North Face jacket shouted, 'Stay here! Stay in my new guest house. More rain coming.' I didn't take any real convincing whatsoever. Ten minutes later it was hammering down. Wise choice.

Day 3  -  April 4th

I set off at 6.15am.... The day was young.

My current altitude was 2.160 metres. I began at 820 metres. Snaefell is 620 metres above sea level.

My target was Lower Pisang.... about ten and a half hours away at an altitude of 3,250 metres.

Every once in a while I'd catch people who'd left lodges further on the trail, couples and small groups. They were few and far between. I generally had a trekker free view of the landscape.

I won't wax lyrical continually with regards to the landscape.... Just be assured it was diverse, vast and stunning.

I'd seen a turn off from the quiet dirt road I was walking on. 'Timang' it read. This was the next village. The turn off led up some incredibly steep steps.... I decided to continue on the dirt road. The incline was less and my knees would thank me.

After 30 minutes of walking I regretted my decision. A tumbling cascade of glacial water filled a large pool which covered the road. There was a line of 'stepping stones', more a 'cross if you dare' line of large loose rocks. The left was the icy pool, maybe two feet deep, and at the right extremity was the line of partially water covered rocks. To the right of this was a vertical drop of a couple of hundred feet. What to do? Back track? The thought filled me with heaviness.... What would Amanda do? I wasn't actually sure. Though if she'd been with me I wouldn't have allowed her to attempt crossing it in fear of her falling.... I'd have took us back.....

Gompa at Chame

So with that in mind, I crouched down on to my hands and knees to test the rocks.... They were unsteady.... like my mind near large drop offs. I began to crawl like Gollum from Lord of the Rings. And before I knew it I was across, with a very speedy heartbeat.

In addition to the water feature obstacle, the road turned out to be a far longer route than the trekking path. Bad decision.

I sat with some Canadians whilst I stuffed down a poor veg omelette. Young Alex (18 years of age, travelling alone) walked with me until we reached Lower Pisang at 5pm-ish. Long day!

From this point on I needed to be aware of any signs of altitude sickness.

Taking it all in....

Day 4  -  April 5th

My plan the next morning was to get to Yak Kharkar seven and a half hours away at an elevation of 4050 metres. The general guide is not to sleep more than 500 metres above the elevation slept at the night before. This would push the limit by an extra 300 metres.... Most folks stop at Manang to acclimatise. There are also a couple of side treks, one which takes the trekker to Tilicho Lake, the highest freshwater lake in the world. There'd been much snow on the higher ground whilst I was getting soaked two days before, plus I had a date to make. In Manang trekkers can catch a movie or two at the little mountain cinema and socialise with other trekkers. Alex and I reached Manang around noon. He decided he'd spend a day or two here. I didn't like the place that much.... Until I began walking out of it and in to Old Manang. The old dry stone buildings were stunning. Locals washing their clothes in the icy water from the taps placed on the cobbled pathway. I love these beautiful old rustic villages, with their ancient and simple way of life.

According to the guide Yak Kharka was 3 hours away. By my reckoning I could probably do it in two and a half hours. I was feeling pretty strong.

The night before I focused on yoga and yogic breathing, trying to ensure my body could acclimatise naturally to the lower pressure and thinner air.

As I clambered out of Manang on to the path I spotted a couple up ahead. The female of the party was sat up on the edge of the path having a breather. I stopped to ask if they were OK.

She was Irish. He had a British accent too.

'Where are you from?' I asked him.

'I'm from the Isle of Man.' He said....

I was blown away. A massive smile bloomed across my face, and rather than coming out with something inventive or witty, the surprise caused me to curse!

I followed the profanity of disbelief with 'I live in Ballasalla'.

Daniel (Kerruish) was from Laxey.

Di, Daniel's wife was struggling a bit, and they'd been recommended a nice little lodge literally 20 minutes up the path. I told them I'd meet them there.

That night I told them what I was trying to do.... We chatted until late (9pm) then hit the hay.

I hoped to stay in contact with them during the trek, but with the pace I was having to keep I thought it unlikely. I'd do my best though. It had made my day bumping in to Dan and Di.

I woke at 3am that night.... Surrounded by mountains and stars.... I headed out in to the chilly air to take a photograph or two....

We come from the stars....

45 minute exposure at 3am.... Brrrrr...

Day 5  -  April 6th

I had breakfast with a mature and extremely eloquent Aussie guy.

We got chatting, and he warned me with regards to the serious dangers of altitude sickness along with the severity of it. He made me very aware of the risk I was taking due to the pace I'd come up the mountain. He told me he was a doctor. He later told me he was a psychiatrist and didn't practise medicine as such, but he was clearly well read on the subject and had an air of worldly knowledge, the strength of which no doubt matched his incredibly firm handshake!  Doug went on to advise me to carry Dimoxin (a drug which can help with altitude sickness), an older couple who had just reached their 60's gave me a few to carry.

Today I was heading to Thorang Phedi, if I made it with no altitude problems I'd be in a good place to make the pass for Amanda's birthday the next day. Dan & Di were also going to try and cover the ground to make Thorang Phedi. We said our goodbyes and I cracked on.

Out of Lower Pisang

Out of Lower Pisang

I hoped to pick up lunch or a snack mid morning at Letdar.... But somehow missed this tiny little hamlet consisting of two little lodges.... The path was narrow and snaking and I was starving. After crossing a bridge at the bottom of the valley an incredibly steep climb ensued. On reaching the top I found a guy selling confectionery snacks. The Snickers bar had reached it's top price 180 Rps, and increase of 100 Rps from a couple of days ago. I bought a packet of biscuits and wolfed down the contents. A crumbly narrow path awaited me. Five hours of walking and I'd reached an altitude of 4,450 metres. I was at Thorang Phedi. I needed shower.....

The guy who runs the lodge grabbed me a steaming bucket of hot water.

'No one normally showers up here.' He said as he lead me to the shower cubicle.

One the concrete room had been cleared of filthy sacks, brooms and general dirty clutter it was rinsed and I was in. The air temperature was icy. I doused myself in a constant flow of hot plastic jugs, dried myself off with the slightly whiffy towel they'd kindly provided me with, once they'd finished drying the last of the dinner dishes off with it, and put all the cloths on I was in possession of. I head stories of many people suffering bouts of altitude sickness induced vomiting and splitting headaches. Many people having turned back after the next stop off at High Camp (4,850 m) 45 minutes from Thorang Phedi and 2 hours from the top due to light headedness, headaches and/or nausea. Some folks get the sense that they'd like to lie down and snooze..... They don't wake up from this snooze. One porter (carries the bags of people who have brought too much or are not fit enough or physically able to carry their own gear) got on the pop a couple on our way up. Dan and Di bumped in the group heading back down, their porter died in the night. Sad.

The most expensive Snickers in Nepal..... I look hairy don't I?

I was overjoyed to see Dan & Di rock in around 4pm!

I had been carrying out huge breathing all day and all evening. Altitude sickness generally kicks in after about 7 hours. It was 8pm and I was experiencing no symptoms. Things were looking good. Tomorrow would tell.

We ate and chatted, then planned to hit the ascent at 6.30am.

Many were starting at 4am!

Day 6  -  Amanda's Birthday  -  April 7th

I bolted my breakfast on schedule and hit the steep ascent.

Dan & Di were late getting off, leaving at about 7.15am.

The air was cold and thin and breath was no longer a given, no longer effortless.

I continued to place one foot in front of the other, toe to heel. There was a lot of snow as I reached High Camp, but I was feeling remarkably good. I continued to catch and pass people. From Thorang Phedi to Thorung Pass according to the guide is approximately 3 hours.

Icy...

This is a path???

Having passed High Camp a treacherously narrow, slippery, snow covered path lead the way. I passed a couple of ponies laden with some lucky trekker's load. It became quickly apparent that my Salomon Trail Trainers were not up to the job of icy snow. I checked the tread.... It was almost non existent. I cursed to myself. I should have checked.

I found a beautiful stone and slipped it inside the chest of this little stone monument.
The stone represented a heart... It was a stone for Amanda....

A couple of false 'woo hoos!' where I thought I was there were quickly dashed as the snowy path continued... Then finally after a short steep ascent there was the tiny tea house and the stack of prayer flags marking the top of Thorung Pass. I'd caught up with groups that had started an hour and a half before me.... It had taken me 2 hours and 40 minutes. More importantly I was there.... Against all odds I'd made it to the highest mountain pass in the world on my wife's birthday. I know she would have been proud.

It was minus 15 degrees with the wind chill and I was wondering how I was going to take a self timer.... My fingers wouldn't be up to the job. Thankfully a kind lady offered to take my picture. She asked if I'd completed the journey alone. I briefly told her why my wife wasn't here with me, she told me she'd lost her husband four years earlier. We hugged and I cried. I dipped in to the tiny stone tea house and bought a large hot chocolate. I sat out of the wind at the back of the building looking at the blue sky and the vast panorama of mountains. I took out my photographs of Amanda and sobbed..... and sobbed.... and sobbed. My heart was aching. She would have loved to be here..... When I finished I swigged back my hot chocolate and began the descent.

At the top...

The descent was brutal. So much snow and ice, such inappropriate footwear. What should have taken 2 hours 45 minutes (so I reckoned 2 hours 15 minutes) actually took me 3 hours 15 minutes. My legs were in bits. I'd slipped, slithered and tumbled my way down. When the snow finally ended I was elated. It was only 12.30pm, so I decided to stop at the first lodge eatery at Charabu at 4,230 metres. I ate with a group of French students. I decided to wait to see if Dan and Di had made it, as many do have to turn back on the first attempt due to altitude problems..... 2pm slid by. Then 3pm.... Then 4pm.... I started to lose hope.... Then at the top I spotted the silhouette of a couple. Could it be them? Could they be the last ones off the mountain? Half an hour later the couple were in view, 'Daniel!!!' I yelled. It was them. We were all well chuffed to have made it and got back together. They sat and grabbed a snack, then headed down another 430 metres, and one hour away to Muktinath.

That night we toasted Amanda and our achievement in completing Thorung Pass. A lot of beer was consumed, and at 450 rupees per large bottle it wasn't cheap. I got up in the morning to sort out my half, but Daniel & Diane had already cleared the tab and refused to allow me to contribute. How lovely and generous.

Day 7

Next morning I was filling my water bottle, when a guy pushed past me stating he was in a hurry. I looked at him and was met by the hairy, smiling face of Fernando, my Argentinian friend. He'd spotted me from his hotel window and charged down the road. We all took it very easy, walking 3 hours to Kagbeni, residing in the Yeti Guesthouse where the lady of the house proved to be an absolute champion in the kitchen. Everything was fresh made, from bread, desserts, meals to apple cider!

Manx & Irish Trekkers.

Cocky.... If you see what I mean...

View from Kagbeni to Mustang

Another view from Kagbeni to Mustang...

A Man 

Brilliant....

Legs in the Gompa

Goats....

Goat Bottleneck...

Day 8

We headed toward Jomson, we arrived around 11.20am.

Daniel & Di were going to catch a bus to back to the town of Pokhara, and Fernando was going to catch a bus to Ghasa then Tatopani (women and hot springs apparently), Tatopani was 13 walking hours away. The clouds had been building around midday as Dan & Di boarded their 8 hour bus journey, and Fernando boarded his 6 hour or so journey..... 

To Jomson!

I'd bought a ticket to go with Fernando, then as I went to board the crowded bus I heard myself saying, 'I could be in Kalopani by 6pm, then another 7 hours I'll be in Tatopani tomorrow afternoon by 3ish'...... I couldn't imagine myself coming out with such insanity back west.... the bus door closed and I went and got a refund for my ticket then began walking. It was only 20 minutes before the sky blackened. The rain started to spot. Big heavy spots. Two days earlier I'd purchased a poncho from one of the little shops, after suffering the second day soaking. I was well prepared. I pulled the cover over the camera bag, then reached for the poncho from my day pack. The simple, blue plastic poncho turned out to be more simple than I thought. As I opened it in the wind and pulled the opening over my head, it was an instant before I realised I was standing at the side of the road in a huge inverted blue, plastic bag. Hmmmmm, I'd been done. I quickly tore a hole for my face, and poked my fingers through the sides to pop my arms through.... Poncho done.

The weather turned nasty. Really nasty. Thunder, lightening, rain, sleet and big hail.... it continued from 12.30pm until 3pm when I dipped in to place for a bowl of soup and hot chocolate. 

One of many suspension bridges....

At 3.30pm the weather resumed in full force until I reached Kalopani at 6pm..... Then setting rays of sunshine pierced the cloud and lit up the mountains in the East. Nice timing.

Angel Guest House in Kalopani, run by a local family was great. The Dal Baht was incredible and the heavy breakfast in the morning was massive and delicious, literally second to none.

Day 9

I cracked on towards Tatopani along a beautiful track. Ups and downs, very steep, very stoney, but more than anything tremendously beautiful. Large lizards scampered between the stone walls, whilst bright red and blue birds darted from tree to tree. Swathes of wild marijuana lined the paths.

Whilst taking photographs a Slovakian girl called Mercke caught up with me. She was on her last legs with two hours to go. We got chatting, distracting her from her discomfort. She thanked me as we arrived in Tatopani at 2.30pm.

I headed down to the hot springs to soothe the aching muscles then met Mercke and Mila for a quick drink.

A kind of selfie!

Taking a breather....

Tried something with my 10 stop filter..... Not sure it worked....

Weed.... Lots of it!

The track to Tatopani

This guy makes two of these baskets each day.....

10pm.... Night Sky.... Slow Shutter....

More night time action.

Day 10  -  April 11th

My birthday. 39 years old and lost.... Searching for something amongst a long trek. I should be happy to still be here. My lovely wife's life was short and intense.... I miss her, I miss her so much.... I always miss her.

Looking at the map and guide the walk from Tatopani to Ghorepani was always going to be a tough day physically and mentally. Seven hours minimum of steep up hill, rising 1,650 metres (1 mile) over a distance of 17km (just in excess of 10 miles).

To cut a long story short....

I briefly lost the track, adding 30 minutes on to my time.

I stopped for Tibetan bread which took 45 minutes.

And I climbed, and climbed and climbed. Huge uneven slabbed steps. Getting in to a rhythm totally impossible due to the varying incline on each step..... It was proving far more difficult than the Pass itself. The surrounds were like that of a Manx or Scottish Glen, but obviously far larger.

When I finally reached the golden arch welcoming me to Ghorepani I could have crumbled on to my knees..... I was a little upset then to find the path continued up another 197 steps, followed by steep path, then another 267 steps to the guesthouse..... Good heavens. I was a broken man.

I was also the first there from Tatopani, and I felt slow..... It took me five and a half hours walking time.

I grabbed a luke warm shower.... Then watched the other trekkers trickle in over the next couple of hours from Tatopani. The sky blackened again, then a blizzard ensued for approximately 10 minutes, along with some very impressive thunder and lightening. The mountain views were hidden by the blanket of cloud. Marten and Maurice (Dad & Son) tracked me down for a beer, once they'd warmed up with a hot shower at their place. I told the lady who ran the lodge it was my birthday, and asked was she going to make me a cake? She returned with a big bowl of popcorn!!! How lovely. Later that evening an Aussie lad called Dave bought me a piece of apple pie as a birthday treat! A kind and generous act by a virtual stranger. Each day I get to appreciate good kind people.

Marten & Maurice had decided to against the grain and opt of the Poon Hill sunrise the next morning.... I was already deliberating whether to bother with this or not. Hundreds of people watching the sunrise from the top of a hill with satellite dishes on isn't my thing. For me a sunrise is a solitary event or shared with a loved one or friend. More talk of the crowds cemented my decision to watch the sunrise from the chilliness of my lodge room.

Day 11

99% of Gorephani (along with 'walkers' from the other side set down by Jeeps) set off at 4.30am to get to the top of Poon Hill to witness the sunrise over the Annapurna range. The sky was filled with haze and the mountains were mere silhouettes. There was nothing to see. I'd say there were many disappointed faces..... At 6.30am the hordes returned for their breakfast. I'd already gorged and was ready to go. I departed the Green View Lodge at 7.15am. I expected to complete the Annapurna circuit within the next 5 hours. With a drop of 1,800 metres (over 1 vertical mile) I hoped my left knee would hold out after the intense climb yesterday. Sometimes going down hill can be worse.

The scenery was once again Scotesque.... Moss laden rocks and trees surrounded the path.... The initial descent was mellow.

I bumped in to trekkers who'd chosen to take on the circuit clockwise, many would ask 'How long from here to Ghorepani?'. I didn't like breaking the news to them..... It was all uphill and many of them already looked shattered. Many were 'just doing' the Poon Hill trek, when I say 'just doing' I mean putting themselves through many hours of pain.

What did the chicken say to the donkey?  Probably not a lot as they are pretty cramped.

Child being carried up the steps in a basket....

Suddenly coming the other way a couple from England that I'd met in Varanasi were coming the other way. We chatted for 10 minutes before I began to mosey on down.

Soon the steps began.... Wow... They felt vertical at times.... So many steps.... For over 2 hours.... I'd also misread the map so by the time I'd reached the end I'd been going 6 hours..... this included a 40 minute lunch break. It was another tough session.

When the bus arrived I was looking forward to plonking my bum down. Typically all the seats were full as was the aisle. I stood (very low small buses) stooped to stop my head smacking the roof each time we bounced over the bumps..... 2 hours later I arrived in Pokhara.

I sat down at a cafe and ordered fruit, muesli and curd.... I was craving fruit having not had any for over 10 days. I washed it back with a musky organic coffee. I quickly checked online and found Dan & Di were in Pokhara until the next day. We arranged to meet for stone baked pizza and a few beers. I feel very privileged to have been allowed to share their company over the time we spent together. They are a great couple. I look forward to catching up with Dan in August, where his brewing skills will be getting put to good use when we combine some magic ingredients to make a delightful home brew!

So there we go. I made it to the top to commemorate my lovely Amanda. I finished the entire circuit from start to finish in one hour over 10 days..... Very fast apparently.... I'm fit for the Parish Walk now, but I'll be in Alaska on a commercial salmon fishing boat then.

My flight out is 21^st April. Kathmandu to Delhi. Delhi to Vancouver then up to Fairbanks Alaska.

This 'Journey', the one I refer to as 'Our Journey' for the sake of this blog will never feel complete..... and I suppose that's because I no longer feel complete. Complete or not I intend to continue filling this much changed life with new challenges and tasks. No longer do I get to see the smile, hear the laugh or feel the touch of the most beautiful person I ever knew. Not physically. Amanda's eyes, her smile, laugh and touch all live in my heart and mind. They always will. I'm lucky to still have her..... We all are.

There'll be very little else to add to this blog now.

Nepal was to be the last place on our travel plans for March/April 2013. Our plans then would have moved on to finding a home where we were going to try and establish a little organic café. Maybe in the future I'll still pursue this.... I'll have to see if that's what life has in store for me first.

As a beautiful, generous, kind, wise woman once said...

'Listen to your heart, what does it say? Just your intuition it will show you the way'.

Amanda-Jo Boyd

Summer 2011

Thanks for following.....

PS. If any funny little things happen I'll update.

PPS. If not I won't bore you all any further.