That night I stood by the campfire until 11.30pm. They guys had gone to bed. I watched the water.
A dark shape took form, swirling and gliding through the low light. A huge sea otter bobbed along on his back, rolling and spiralling, alternating from front to back.... My first sea otter. A nice way to end a lovely day with Bryan, his sister and Gary.
I woke at 5.30am and began packing down camp and reloading the bike.
The ferry terminal was only a three minute cycle away.
The first rain I'd experienced in over four weeks of being in Alaska fell during the night.
Various folks chatted to me as I boarded the ferry, interested to find out where I was headed and where I'd been. I spotted the large Winnebago that had been parked just over from my tent at the Bear Paw RV park. Maybe a potential ride through the Whittier tunnel.
I bumped in to Lee & Mary-Anne in the canteen area. We got chatting and
Lee kindly offered me a ride through the tunnel in to the Portage Valley on the otherside. Fantastic.
I ended up chatting with Lee, Mary-Anne and Tommy quite a bit on the ferry. Tommy's partner Carol wasn't feeling to well at this point. The six hours on the ferry were spent watching out for wildlife.
I spent time talking with a new friend who was as interested in the wildlife as I was. Jeff, from Anchorage was travelling with his wife and four year old daughter. He filled me in on the wildlife spotting opportunities and expanded my knowledge on the coastal bird life. A great guy, who reminded me of one of my very best friends back home. The rain pounded the outside deck of the ferry whilst I wandered under the various little canopies up to the solarium area where orange glowing ceiling based heaters warm the air whilst you watch the sea.
I got lucky, as I wandered to the front of the ferry a pod of some sort of dolphin or was it porpoises started busting the surface, whizzing in close to the side of the vessel. They were beautiful.... Then they were gone again.
I returned to the canteen area where the table tops are covered with pictures of land based animals, birds, sea based mammals, fish and other life you are likely to encounter on your trip through Alaska. The beasties I'd just seen looked like Dall porpoises, but they were fast, swirly and powerful like dolphins.... Jeff's wife later informed me that they were indeed Dall porpoises. They move like dolphins and look like little Orcas!
I asked the lady behind the canteen counter if she minded if I added slugs of hot chocolate to my bottomless cup of coffee, 'I don't care.' she smiled. Nice! I gathered a small selection of salad dressings for my camping supplies too. Needs must whilst we camp!
As we approached Whittier the ferry passed through an archipelago of islands where snow melt water falls gushed over the steep island faces in to the sea and ancient glaciers pierced the valleys. It was very beautiful indeed.
As the ferry pulled in to Whittier Lee said they'd go find a place to pull up so I could load my bicycle and bags in to the RV (Recreational Vehicle, Camper, Winnebago!). It was hammering down.
As I cycled from the ferry I spotted the RV, and Lee came out to assist me loading up.
We had an hour wait before we could go through the tunnel.
With the weather against me I decided to stay put at the RV park with Tennessee support.
I joined them for a lovely meal of spag bol and glass of vino. More lovely generous folks! Thank you all, or should I say 'thanks y'all!' I waited for the RV camp owner to return in the hope he would agree to me pitching my tent under the wooden shelter where the huge camp fire was burning. Whilst we waited Mary-Anne brought out a bag of marshmallows for toasting, whilst Lee & Tommy enjoyed the warmth. Carol was still feeling under the weather. At 10pm Scott returned, he agreed to my plans (I'd already set up the tent, but was happy enough to life and move if required) for dry shelter.
The next morning I enjoyed a breakfast of hot oats courtesy of Mary-Anne. I packed down camp, thanked Scott (went to pay him $10 dollars for camping, which he refused saying, 'You'll need that on the road brother.' How very kind) and hit the road.
Over breakfast Lee was attempting to rearrange their pre-booked glacier cruise from Whittier due to Carol's current state of sickness.
They later discovered she was suffering a viral infection.
After almost 24 hours of saddle rest my butt cheeks were ready for action (that probably doesn't sound how it meant to). The rain was just holding off and once again I was lucky enough to have the wind at my back. I was feeling good, the surroundings were beautiful and the cycle path which was away from the road was smooth. My luggage frame repair continued to rub on the rear disc brake ever so gently meaning I used more energy with each pedal. The zip ties were holding, all was well. I was feeling so good in fact that I'd decided to ride over 100 miles that day, leaving me with only 75 miles the next day. My average speed was somewhere between 10 and 12 miles per hour. The climb out of Whittier was tough, and continued slowly but surely in to the sky.
With just over 30 miles covered by 12pm a wonderful thing happened.
A large RV pulled over just ahead of me. Lee jumped out! They had changed their Glacier Cruise until Sunday hoping Carol would be feeling better. Would I like a ride to Homer? Would I ever! I was as pleased to be getting a ride over the next 140 miles as I was getting to spend time in the company of Lee, Mary-Anne, Tommy and Carol again. I feel this meeting was another serendipitous one.
Both Tommy and Carol had lost partners in the past. Tommy's first wife had passed away 7 years to the day. We talked and shared. Tommy and Carol had met through a grief counselling group. It was lovely to see them together, new love. I watched as Tommy doted on Carol, and Lee prodded playfully at Mary-Anne as he drove. There was a lot of love in this big RV.
One of the nicest things about travelling is constant meeting of new people. People with whom I can talk openly about Amanda to. They've never heard about her, about our time together, so they don't get bored, and there's no risk of my repeating myself, which I no doubt do with all my friends and family. I love to talk about her.... think about her.... I'd love to dream about her more, but I don't get to choose my dreams.
As we progressed on our journey south the road became narrower. Cycle lanes had disappeared and the road became narrow with long stretches of restorative surface works. It would have been very difficult cycling indeed.
'I'm so glad we found you and picked you up.' said Mary-Anne in her sweet southern accent. I was too. This stretch of road would have been a total nightmare!
We arrived at Catie & Tom's house at 6pm.
I gave hugs and said 'so long' to my Tennessee support crew hoping to meet up with them again whilst they were in Homer. Lee & Mary-Anne were celebrating their 43rd wedding anniversary the next day!
As the guys drove off I lugged my bags down to my new home for the next fortnight. I was blown away by the view. This beautiful wooden house over looked the bay all the way across to the snow capped mountains. A wooden hot tub sat proudly on the large decking balcony.... Amanda would have loved it here.
When the weather improves (currently Manx weather, wind, rain and mist!) I'll take some photographs to share this beautiful place with you all.
Hope the Manxies are enjoying TT week, and that the rest of my UK, European and International circle of wonderful friends are enjoying wherever and whatever you are all up to.
A dark shape took form, swirling and gliding through the low light. A huge sea otter bobbed along on his back, rolling and spiralling, alternating from front to back.... My first sea otter. A nice way to end a lovely day with Bryan, his sister and Gary.
 |
| The Breakwater |
The ferry terminal was only a three minute cycle away.
The first rain I'd experienced in over four weeks of being in Alaska fell during the night.
Various folks chatted to me as I boarded the ferry, interested to find out where I was headed and where I'd been. I spotted the large Winnebago that had been parked just over from my tent at the Bear Paw RV park. Maybe a potential ride through the Whittier tunnel.
I bumped in to Lee & Mary-Anne in the canteen area. We got chatting and
Lee kindly offered me a ride through the tunnel in to the Portage Valley on the otherside. Fantastic.
I ended up chatting with Lee, Mary-Anne and Tommy quite a bit on the ferry. Tommy's partner Carol wasn't feeling to well at this point. The six hours on the ferry were spent watching out for wildlife.
 |
| Dall's Porpoise... |
 |
| Warmth Outdoors.... This doubles as a sleeping area on the overnight journeys. |
 |
| Useful tables! |
I asked the lady behind the canteen counter if she minded if I added slugs of hot chocolate to my bottomless cup of coffee, 'I don't care.' she smiled. Nice! I gathered a small selection of salad dressings for my camping supplies too. Needs must whilst we camp!
As we approached Whittier the ferry passed through an archipelago of islands where snow melt water falls gushed over the steep island faces in to the sea and ancient glaciers pierced the valleys. It was very beautiful indeed.
 |
| A glacier peaks over the tree line. |
As I cycled from the ferry I spotted the RV, and Lee came out to assist me loading up.
We had an hour wait before we could go through the tunnel.
At 13,300 ft (4,100 m), it is the second-longest highway tunnel and longest combined rail and highway tunnel in North America.
The tunnel is designed with a single highway lane. The floor of the tunnel is constructed of 1800 7.5 feet by 8 feet texturised concrete panels, with the railroad tracks sunken slightly below the road surface. The interior is exposed rock, and contains several "safe-houses", which are small buildings that are used in case of severe earthquakes, vehicle fires, or other emergencies.
My new Tennessee support crew went and booked a glacier cruise for the next day. Whilst we waited Mary-Anne prepared me a delicious sandwich to stave off the hunger I'd soon start to experience on my bike ride.
With the weather against me I decided to stay put at the RV park with Tennessee support.
I joined them for a lovely meal of spag bol and glass of vino. More lovely generous folks! Thank you all, or should I say 'thanks y'all!' I waited for the RV camp owner to return in the hope he would agree to me pitching my tent under the wooden shelter where the huge camp fire was burning. Whilst we waited Mary-Anne brought out a bag of marshmallows for toasting, whilst Lee & Tommy enjoyed the warmth. Carol was still feeling under the weather. At 10pm Scott returned, he agreed to my plans (I'd already set up the tent, but was happy enough to life and move if required) for dry shelter.
 |
| Camping |
The next morning I enjoyed a breakfast of hot oats courtesy of Mary-Anne. I packed down camp, thanked Scott (went to pay him $10 dollars for camping, which he refused saying, 'You'll need that on the road brother.' How very kind) and hit the road.
Over breakfast Lee was attempting to rearrange their pre-booked glacier cruise from Whittier due to Carol's current state of sickness.
They later discovered she was suffering a viral infection.
After almost 24 hours of saddle rest my butt cheeks were ready for action (that probably doesn't sound how it meant to). The rain was just holding off and once again I was lucky enough to have the wind at my back. I was feeling good, the surroundings were beautiful and the cycle path which was away from the road was smooth. My luggage frame repair continued to rub on the rear disc brake ever so gently meaning I used more energy with each pedal. The zip ties were holding, all was well. I was feeling so good in fact that I'd decided to ride over 100 miles that day, leaving me with only 75 miles the next day. My average speed was somewhere between 10 and 12 miles per hour. The climb out of Whittier was tough, and continued slowly but surely in to the sky.
 |
| Nice steady incline, with a little delightful downhill.... Then some more uphill.... |
A large RV pulled over just ahead of me. Lee jumped out! They had changed their Glacier Cruise until Sunday hoping Carol would be feeling better. Would I like a ride to Homer? Would I ever! I was as pleased to be getting a ride over the next 140 miles as I was getting to spend time in the company of Lee, Mary-Anne, Tommy and Carol again. I feel this meeting was another serendipitous one.
Both Tommy and Carol had lost partners in the past. Tommy's first wife had passed away 7 years to the day. We talked and shared. Tommy and Carol had met through a grief counselling group. It was lovely to see them together, new love. I watched as Tommy doted on Carol, and Lee prodded playfully at Mary-Anne as he drove. There was a lot of love in this big RV.
One of the nicest things about travelling is constant meeting of new people. People with whom I can talk openly about Amanda to. They've never heard about her, about our time together, so they don't get bored, and there's no risk of my repeating myself, which I no doubt do with all my friends and family. I love to talk about her.... think about her.... I'd love to dream about her more, but I don't get to choose my dreams.
As we progressed on our journey south the road became narrower. Cycle lanes had disappeared and the road became narrow with long stretches of restorative surface works. It would have been very difficult cycling indeed.
'I'm so glad we found you and picked you up.' said Mary-Anne in her sweet southern accent. I was too. This stretch of road would have been a total nightmare!
We arrived at Catie & Tom's house at 6pm.
I gave hugs and said 'so long' to my Tennessee support crew hoping to meet up with them again whilst they were in Homer. Lee & Mary-Anne were celebrating their 43rd wedding anniversary the next day!
 |
| Tennessee Support Crew. Lee, Mary-Anne, Tommy & Carol Thanks Y'all x |
When the weather improves (currently Manx weather, wind, rain and mist!) I'll take some photographs to share this beautiful place with you all.
Hope the Manxies are enjoying TT week, and that the rest of my UK, European and International circle of wonderful friends are enjoying wherever and whatever you are all up to.
 |
| Huge Glacier - View from inside the ferry. |
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