A Fortnight on Kodiak.

Having been left stranded on the beautiful Alaskan island of Kodiak, after choosing to miss my ferry (hoping there would be another in 2 or 3 days) things worked out rather well.

When Rowland headed out to work (almost 77 years of age, but an absolute workaholic) at the machine shop I'd take on the house keeping duties.

My usefulness became apparent to Rowland who made as much use of the helpful yeti residing beneath his roof. I took to
strimming the edges of the long driveway, and mowing the lawns, then Rowland turned up with his way of 'strimming' the edges.

A few days later dropped me off at the timber yard with my bicycle. I primed two security gates which protected the timber yard, then painted them bright yellow a few days later.... Rowland and I have shared the cooking, though Rowland does the lion's share as he knows what he likes and where he likes things to be in his kitchen. Rowland is a man's man. He can turn his hand to anything. He can literally fix anything mechanical. He owns more tools and machinery than anyone I've ever known. He actually owns the JCB digger above.... Quite a toy! He uses it regularly to shift the huge pieces of timber he works on out the back.

Kodiak is beautiful. It's lush and green.

Hilly trails.

Hmmmm very enclosed trail.... Bears?

Track over the hills.

I've trekked in the uplands and over the ridges in search of bears. On my first trek I was 'mobbed' by a very protective pair of rock sandpipers who were clearly protecting something. I assumed a nest. It took them to think I'd wandered off, before they revealed what they were protecting. I hadn't wandered, I'd just hidden for a few minutes. Crawling around on my belly like a military soldier approaching the enemy.

They were protecting a little fledgling who as yet suffered the inability to take flight. Once I saw what was going on I left them undisturbed.

If Not You, Who?  If Not Now, When?

The few days later I cycled down a tyre threatening rough track.... It descended steadily over 500 feet. In the back of mind I wondered how tough the return journey would be, then tried to bring my focus back to the present. This little rocky trail took me past beautiful lupine covered headlands where the sea was glassy calm. I looked down the cliffs and watched a sea otter in the distance. I eventually ended up at a remote little beach. As I propped my bicycle up two huge bald headed eagles lifted from the branches over head. I strolled along the sand until I reached the the rocks being treated once more to some great sea otter antics. It was a beautiful afternoon.

That same day I was lucky enough to spot a young bear (a teenager) mooching around out on the flats beside the road near the house, and eventually ended up about 30 metres from her as she rushed across the road. I yearned for a more wild experience.

You lookin' at me?

I decided my next trek would take me up in to the hills towards Heitman Lake. This was a steep but fairly short trek. One that placed me in 'bear country'. The ascent was fairly tough on my left knee, and the track was wet and swampy. I hoped the lake would be worth it. 
45 minutes later I reached the small expanse of water and placed my bum on some comfortable foliage and rested.

I sat daydreaming about Amanda. I watched the blue sky and clouds reflecting from the water's surface. Half an hour I decided it was time to head back down the trail bear-less, still in the hope that maybe I'd spot something on the return leg. As I lifted my backpack I spotted movement on the ridge opposite. I charged up the steep knoll to my left, piling through thick alders and deep ferns. I pulled out the binoculars. Ooooh a bear! A small bear.... and another.... wow! I wonder where.... then she appeared. Big momma bear ambled around beside them. I now had a totally unencumbered view of a family of Kodiak bears. The cubs played and roly polyed around. One lying on it's back playing with some low hanging branches. Momma bear looked at them and made a coughing bark which obviously meant 'You two, follow me. Now'. They moved along, mooching on the bushes and nibbling at grasses. This was a real spectacle, a real wilderness experience. I was lay back with a rock supporting me and thick heather cushioning my frame, the warm sun beating on my face. Eventually 'Family Bear' disappeared in to the thick alder brush.... no sign of them whatsoever, which was incredible, considering the brush was only four to five feet deep.... Rowland had sent me on my way with a flare gun and air horn. Neither were needed, but it's better to be safe than sorry when trekking in bear country.

View from the peak back down to Heitman Lake.  Stunning....

We had guests during the last few days of my stay. Dale & Anita from Seattle. They were kind, lovely people like most who I've met on my travels.  Dale very kindly and generously took myself and Rowland out for dinner and couple of beers on the night before his 34 wedding anniversary.  Poor Anita had fallen ill, but perked up the next day.  We also had Jim, a younger guy (17 days younger than me!) who now lives in Fairbanks. He was only staying for one night. We got chatting by the fire pit, and ended up there until midnight. A great guy, I think we were kindred spirits. Similar beliefs with regards to the world. A new friend was made that night.

Rowland gives a lesson on filleting.

Anita holds up her fillet.

Hairy Man shows his filleting skills....

Stack of fillets!

Baiting eagles with salmon carcasses.... I sat and waited for 90 minutes.....

Manx style eagles appeared.... Ravenous as ever!

Yesterday I decided to cycle from Rowland's B&B out to Fossil Beach. This is 'road end'. 37.5 miles from Celtic Mist B&B, what a coincidence eh!? For those of you reading not from the Isle of Man, this is the distance travelled by the motorcycles on the Isle of Man TT course each time they complete a full circuit. I had my breakfast of oats and apple and powered out to Fossil Beach. 

The weather was stunning... too stunning for powering up and down hills that roller coasted from sea level to 450ft. Intensely short climbs were pedalled as quickly and powerfully as I could manage. Steep fast descents pushed along with pumping legs in my highest gear. I worked hard. I was looking forward to seeing whales at Pasaghak (there were none) and photographing the reef again at Fossil beach. 33 miles in and I decided to watch the waves at Surfer's Beach.

It made me laugh out loud.... I don't know why, it just did...

I chatted to a lady watching the small glassy surf from her car. She was deciding whether or not to get in. We chatted for twenty minutes. I told her of my travels, choosing for once not to get too involved in this potentially brief conversation, instead sticking to the route I'd taken and forgoing the reasoning behind it all.

The lady finally decided she would go in surfing, then even more finally decided against it, I headed onwards to Fossil Beach. As I pulled up at the end of the road, tackling the steep, rutted track to Fossil Beach, I was starting to feel ravenously hungry. It had been 4 hours since breakfast, and I'd ridden 37 miles. My fuel was based around a couple of Snickers Bars and a small sachet of nuts.... As I reached the end of the track there was no reef to be seen. The tide had sneaked it's way all the way up to the sand. A long ride for no pictures.... Gutted. But what a beautiful day. I ate both Snickers and the sachet of nuts hoping this little blast of energy would get me home. I sat and meditated in the sun for an hour.

Fossil Beach..... High Tide!

After 15 miles I reached Olds River Inn and felt in need of refreshment and possibly some food to get me home. I was starting to feel a little worn out.

The lady behind the bar asked how the rest of my ride went. Assuming she'd seen me riding along the road at some point I told her it had been beautiful. I rummaged in my shorts pockets and found $11.00. Hmmmm this would buy me a salad or a sandwich but no cold, crisp beer.

I opted for a cool crisp beer, possibly two in the blazing sun on the decking outside the bar. I got chatting to a young couple in their mid thirties. He worked for the US Coast Guard. He went on to tell me in four years time he'll have served twenty years, then retirement awaits him!!!! Good heavens, he was retiring at 38 years old on a military pension and full medical cover. Even for full social security benefit US citizen have only to work 20 years.... Nice!

Maggie the barmaid reappeared noticing I'd drained my dark ale. She looked and smiled questioningly. I looked back and nodded. I had enough cash for just one more.

Whilst I chatted with the US Coastguard guy and his nurse wife I'd drained my glass once again and offered yet another beer. 'You trying to get me drunk?' I laughed, 'I have to cycle to Kodiak yet, I'll be swerving everywhere! Thanks but no thanks.'

A few minutes later I approached the bar to pay for my drink. I held out my 'Benjamins' (rapper slang for cash) Maggie waved her hand smiling, 'The beers are on me.'

'Why?' not thanks just, why, that was my first thought....

'I enjoyed hearing about your travels, and I hope you enjoy the rest of it.' She said.

'Wow, thank you so much. That's so kind of you. Thank you!' The clouds lifted and I realised this generous lady was the very lady I'd been chatting to at Surfer's Beach, and I hadn't recognised her due to her large sunglasses masking her face..... I was blown away by her kindness and generosity. It seems to have been a constant on the US leg of my journey. Constant kindness and generosity.

I set off home and made a swift discovery that two Snickers, a sachet of peanuts and two pints of Oregon's finest dark ale do not supply sufficient calories to cover 75 miles at a good pace..... I burned out big style. The final 10 miles were such an incredible struggle..... My hands were shaking, I was light headed and my legs were like jelly. It was the toughest 10 miles I've ever ridden. I was delighted to be greeted at Celtic Mist B&B by Roland and Anita who had been preparing a massive evening meal. I was done for!

Anita and Dale departed Kodiak this morning. Roland and I have changed the beds in preparation for next weeks' guests. I've vacuumed, dusted and cleaned the rooms and washed the bathrooms. This afternoon Rowland had me assisting him with some plank cuttings, proper 'man' work. I guided the far end of the chainsaw whilst Rowland did 90% of the work. I'm not sure if this only made me 10% man? The spruce we were cutting was massive! It was hot work. 

The sun was beating down at 70 degrees (21 degrees Celsius to the UK'ers) and it felt hot. Strange. Nine weeks ago I was comfortable in temperatures over 33 degrees Celsius, now 21 degrees 'C' feels hot!

I was tempted to get Rowland to brand me....

So my time on Kodiak is done.

At 10.45pm tonight I board the good ship Kennicott for the 19 hour journey to Whittier.

On reaching Whittier I intend to spend the night camping (if I can find some where I can pitch a tent), and then board another four hour ferry the following afternoon to Valdez.

Another night camping in Valdez and the next morning I'll climb 2,475 feet to the top of Thompson Pass, then make my way to small Alaskan community of McCarthy. 190 miles of cycling..... and once off the main road I meet the enemy of all bicycle tyres; the unsurfaced road. Sharp rocks, loose gravel and brown dust await me, plus one night of camping along the road with a storm of ever hungry blood sucking mosquitoes for company. Troublesome little beggars!

Looking forward to rejoining my friends and family in a few short weeks.

Love, share and judge no one.

Bye for now.

x