A little story....

It was my final evening at Celtic Mist B&B on Kodiak. Rowland had offered to drive me the 11 miles to the ferry dock. I suggested I take him for a beer before hand. We headed to a bar 3 minutes cycle from the ferry.

We enjoyed a couple of bottles of dark Alaskan stout as Rowland regaled more stories whilst introducing me to a few of the locals. Two real characters were Ginger & Stan who are in the process of setting up a sustainable ecological village on the North East of Kodiak. It sounds awesome...

We knocked back our beers, it was already 9.40pm then Rowland took me over to the ferry on his way home.

'Where do I pick up my ticket' I asked the Jerri, the lady in the orange reflexive jacket.

'Oh, you need to head back to the visitors centre in town.' she said screwing her face up apologetically.

As she quickly gave me directions I realised it was almost next to the bar we'd just been drinking in. It was 9.45pm and the ferry was set to depart at 10.45pm The guy standing alongside Jerri assured me I had plenty of time.... I joked with her about not allowing the ferry to leave without me, and left my back pack in the hold.

I cycled back to the Visitors Centre picked up my ticket and decided with it only being 9.55pm that there was plenty of time for another swift beer. My favourite stout was on offer for $2.00, it would be rude not to indulge myself especially as I'd been so restrained over recent months on my consumption of alcohol. After buying Rowland and myself a couple of beers plus the one I'd just ordered I had eight dollars remaining for my 19 hour ferry ride. I'd decided the day before I may shoot for a cleansing two day fast, and what better place to do it than on the ferry. I got chatting with Geoff (or Jeff) the barman and asked him about the beers. As I swigged my cold dark ale I asked did they do a taster tray? They did. 'How much is it?' I enquired.

'Fifteen dollars Geoff replied.'

'Ah well, no worries.'

Then Dylan (or Dylin) the young front of house manager asked if I'd like a tray of 9 tasters (which amounted to two and a half pints of delicious beer), asking if I'd score them on their special 'score sheet. I only have eight dollars until I reach Valdez (19 hours to Whittier, one night camping, then the ferry at 2pm the next day arriving in Valdez at 6pm). I told him I was doing a two day fast. 

Booze Hound.

He said the taster tray would be on him if I'd rate them for him. Wow! Of course I'll rate them. It was already 10.15pm. I had 25 minutes before I had to be at the ferry. Dylan and I chatted for the full half hour. He was already deep, wise and worldly at the tender age of 21. He shared that he'd love to travel, and one day intends to. He was born on Kodiak. I believe Dylan will travel. As I enjoyed and rated the fine ales I shared with him the story behind my travels. This has been
one of the joys of travelling. Not telling folks that Amanda died, and 'oh poor me, I'm alone and sad.' but the chance to talk about her, share with others how awesome she was, how incredible our love was.... travelling provides a constant stream of new folks, with new ears. I could talk about Amanda forever. Her journey through life, her strength and courage in the face of emotional turmoil and adversity, her ever developing wisdom and love for everyone.... and on and on.... and that's what I've been able to to do on this journey.

Dylan with his third 'trick' hand which always rests on his shoulder.

Dylan, Geoff and I shared thoughts on the world and where its headed. It was a great half hour. At 10.40pm I was supping my last taster whilst we chatted, when Dylan asked did I really only have eight dollars cash on me. I laughed and emptied my pocket. I won't even need that I assured him. I reitterated my plan to fast. Now Dylan was troubled. He reached in to his pocket and said, 'I want you to take this in case you get stuck.' He slid $20 across the bar. I looked at him and laughed. 'That's one of the kindest and sweetest things I've experienced on my travels Dylan.' I slid it back confirming I didn't need it. I wasn't in need of money. I just hadn't been to an ATM, and there wasn't one nearby. Dylan pushed the note back, 'I'll be offended if you don't take it.' I smiled, 'Honestly I won't need it Dylan.'

'Well if you find you don't use it, pass it on.' he said kindly.

Wow, this young man was generous to a fault. What a guy! He looked at me. I put my hand over the $20 note and said, 'Let's meet in the middle on this, well almost the middle-ish.'

I pushed him across the $5 bill and two single dollar notes, along with four quarter coins. He smiled, then pushed back the quarter coins. 'You may need them for the vending machine.'

'I won't'

'Yes, but you may.'

I laughed, blown away at this guys persistent generosity and caring nature.

'Thanks Dylan, you're quite a guy.'

It was almost 11pm when we said are goodbyes, telling them I'd probably be back (the place was empty except for me) as I'd probably missed the ferry by now.

I swerved speedily on bicycle to the port.

Jerri was still standing there smiling as I approached. I quickly told her the story of the guys in the bar and the 'on the house' taster tray. She said the ferry wouldn't be boarding for at least another hour.

'So can I return to the bar and chat with my young friends?' I asked with a smile.

'Be back by midnight, and don't get drunk or they won't let you board.' she laughed.

'No worries, last orders has already been Jerri! Thanks!' I said as I pedalled back to the bar.

Dylan, Geoff and two young Kodiak born girls from the villages chatted for almost an hour.

It was great to be privvy to the thoughts of the youth of Kodiak. Geoff shared a serendipitous tale, whilst Dylan spoke about large companies, businesses and monopolies amongst other things. It was great to hear about life in the tiny secluded villages of Kodiak. Life there is simple and very limited in what is on offer. Basically fishing is on offer and that's that. No roads in, no roads out. Just boats and planes.

Just after midnight Dylan checked his watch (or his phone which is more likely in this day and age) kindly offering a 'heads up' to the time. Midnight had just passed. The two pints of water that Geoff had kindly served ensured the effects of the taster tray and the previous three little bottles of stout were well diluted.

I cycled merrily back to the ferry, floated up stairs to my 'blackout' cabin (no light, a real joy in Alaska) unpacked a few bits, slipped my pictures of Amanda onto a wall mounted ladder and crashed on to the bed. A few minutes later it was 8am, my longest sleep in weeks....

It was time to explore the sea!